The Rise and Fall of Powdered Wigs: A Fashion Craze Through History

From ancient Egypt to the French Revolution, wigs have played a fascinating role in fashion and society. But it was in the 17th century that they truly exploded in popularity, thanks to a balding king and a desire for status. Let's delve into the history of powdered wigs and explore why they became such a sensation.

The Royal Beginning

In 1624, King Louis XIII of France faced a personal crisis: he was losing his hair. In a time when a monarch's hair symbolized power and nobility, this was a serious concern. Louis's solution? A full, magnificent wig. This decision sparked a fashion craze that would last for 150 years.

Wigs Before Louis XIII

Wigs have a long history, serving various purposes:

• Hygiene: Wigs provided a barrier against lice and other scalp issues.
• Theater: They allowed actors to easily transform into different characters.
• Anti-aging: Wigs concealed thinning or graying hair.

Ancient Egyptians crafted intricate wigs, and Roman women wore ornate styles. However, the Catholic Church in the Middle Ages discouraged wig-wearing, emphasizing humility. As rules relaxed in the 1500s, wigs became more acceptable. Queen Elizabeth I of England famously owned over 80 red wigs to conceal her thinning hair.

The Wig Boom

Louis XIII's wig sparked a trend. Members of his court, eager to gain favor, began wearing wigs. Aristocrats elsewhere soon followed suit. Several factors contributed to the wig's popularity:

• Mercury and Hair Loss: Mercury, used to treat syphilis, caused hair loss, making wigs a convenient solution.
• Convenience: Wigs eliminated the need for daily hair cleaning and styling.

Louis XIV and French Fashion

Louis XIII's son, Louis XIV, further amplified the trend. His government invested heavily in France's luxury industry, creating specialized guilds, formalizing seasonal releases, and enforcing a dress code at court. This boosted France's wealth and influence, making Parisian-style wigs a must-have item across Europe.

The Making of a Wig

These elaborate wigs required significant resources. A single wig could use hair from ten heads. The number of Parisian wigmakers quadrupled within a century. Wigs were typically made from human hair (often sourced from poor women) or cheaper materials like wool or horsehair.

Powdering and Maintenance

Wigs required regular cleaning and maintenance. People used perfumed powders made of flour, chalk, and aromatics like violet, rose, clove, and lemon to clean, deodorize, and absorb sweat. This messy process required a designated "powder room," which is where the term originated.

Changing Styles and Criticisms

By the mid-1700s, men's wigs became simpler, with curls around the face and a ponytail in back. Women's wigs, however, reached new heights, literally towering up to a meter. These were constructed using rods, ribbons, and wool stuffing and adorned with various accessories. Lighter-colored wigs became fashionable, enhanced with powders tinted purple, pink, or blue.

However, not everyone embraced the trend. Caricaturists mocked wig-wearers as frivolous and flamboyant. The heavy, powdered wigs were also a nuisance in hotter climates.

The Fall of the Wig

In the late 1700s, a backlash against aristocratic decadence gained momentum. As France faced a bread shortage, flour-powdered wigs became a symbol of excess. The French Revolution in 1789 marked a turning point. In 1795, England's parliament passed a "powder tax," leading many to abandon their wigs.

And so, the powdered wig fell out of fashion, becoming a relic of a bygone era.